Some of the most rejuvenating anti-aging products on the market have one thing in common: growth factors. Despite their increasing popularity in topical skin care over the last decade, you might have questions about how they actually work. To help take the mystery out of growth factors, let’s break down all the need-to-know details about effectiveness, safety and more.

What are growth factors?

Growth factors are substances naturally occurring in the human body or elsewhere that regulate cellular processes. Think of them as messengers that tell cells to start and complete a specific process, such as growth or repair. They can be plant, animal or human-derived products.

How do topical growth factors work in skin care?

One thing natural growth factors do in our bodies is signal to fibroblast cells when to produce collagen. “As we grow older, our bodies naturally make lower levels of growth factors, which is what leads to a breakdown in collagen and the formation of wrinkles,” says board-certified dermatologist and LovelySkin CEO Dr. Joel Schlessinger. Other growth factors encourage wounds or damaged skin to heal, while others increase the rate of cell growth. “When applied topically in skin care, growth factors essentially trick aging skin cells into behaving like younger skin cells by jump-starting processes such as collagen production or cell division to repair damaged skin. There is a lot that we simply don’t know about how or why they work, but they do work,” Dr. Schlessinger says.

Are growth factors in skin care effective?

In the right concentration, growth factors can effectively improve skin texture and reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation. “Although I was initially skeptical that they would work in a demonstrable manner, I’ve seen noticeable results from my patients using high-quality anti-aging products with growth factors,” Dr. Schlessinger says. Applying products with growth factors can also shorten the recovery period after skin injuries or procedures, such as burns, microneedling or laser treatments.

Are growth factors with skin care safe to use?

Because some growth factors increase the rate of cell growth, that’s prompted the question of whether using them in skin care products could cause cancerous growth in the skin. Though the long-term effects of growth factors in skin care have not been robustly studied in a clinical setting, anecdotal evidence from board-certified dermatologists is reassuring when it comes to safety. “In the 15 years I’ve been offering products with growth factors to my patients, I’ve not seen any problems, but the research is still ongoing,” Dr. Schlessinger says.

Are you ready to give growth factors a try? Here are five of our favorite products that harness the anti-aging power of growth factors.

SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum

If you’re a fan of SkinMedica’s TNS Essential Serum, consider this formula its next-generation sibling, with 450 growth factors versus 380 in the original. With each application, ingredients from two separate chambers inside this vial—a growth factor blend and peptide complex on one side and marine extract, green microalgae and flax seed on the other—combine to form one powerful anti-aging serum. They all work together to soften wrinkles, firm sagging skin and improve elasticity. If you’re sensitive to fragrance, you’ll also appreciate that this formula is scentless.

Neocutis Lumiere Firm Illuminating & Tightening Eye Cream

Are you looking to incorporate a new eye cream into your routine? This Swiss-engineering derived eye cream includes growth factors to combat crow’s feet as well as a proprietary peptide complex that prompts collagen production for tighter, firmer-looking skin. It also contains glycyrrhetinic acid to help lighten dark under-eye circles and caffeine to help zap puffiness.

Biopelle Tensage Daily Serum

Biopelle is known in the skin care world for Tensage Growth Factor, a line of products powered by growth factors derived from snail secretions that stimulate cell regrowth. Combined with antioxidants, niacinamide and brightening agents, it all adds up to an impressive treatment that will improve existing signs of aging and protect against future damage with daily use.

PCA SKIN Rejuvenating Serum

The makers of this serum formulated it specifically with mature or post-procedural skin in mind, so put it on your to-try list after your next chemical peel. Bisabolol soothes inflammation while growth factors help damaged skin heal. Antioxidants help diminish wrinkles and guard against future environmental damage too.

Defenage 8-in-1 BioSerum

Often recommended as a retinol alternative, this anti-aging serum contains DefenAge’s own synthetic growth factors called Age-Repair Defensins. They activate a healing sequence in your skin’s cells, which is especially beneficial after treatments such as microneedling. The addition of antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid make this an all-in-one treatment that reduces redness, wrinkles and discoloration and makes way for smoother, brighter skin. “This company has performed elegant research that shows the benefits of Defensins and why they should be incorporated into your regimen,” says Dr. Schlessinger.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are another popular active ingredient in the best anti-aging skin care regimens. Learn more about what AHA is the best for your skin type in our recent blog post.